Picture a little stack of pastel bunny coasters sitting on your coffee table right before Easter, and you'll understand exactly why I keep coming back to this one. This Easter Bunny Coaster Crochet Pattern is the kind of seasonal project that actually gets used, not just admired, and it comes together fast enough that you can make a whole set before the holiday sneaks up on you.
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The Inspiration
What I love about this design is how much personality it has with almost no fuss. The body is a flat round worked in a spiral, so it reads as a classic coaster shape, but those two long ears shooting up from the top are what make it unmistakably a bunny. No face, no embellishments. Just the silhouette, and it's enough. (Sometimes the simplest read is the strongest one, and this is a good example of that.)
The stitch texture gives the surface a nice visual weight. It doesn't look flat or flimsy. The samples in the photo come in a range of soft pastels and one bright yellow, and honestly the design holds up in any color you reach for. Earthy tones would look just as good as the springtime palette shown. These work as a set for a seasonal tablescape, or as a quick handmade gift tucked into an Easter basket. Either way, they're a really satisfying little make.
What Makes This Pattern Special
A functional Easter coaster that actually looks like a bunny, no face required.
- Iconic silhouette: The long ear shape does all the work of making this read as a bunny instantly, with no additional features needed.
- Seasonally useful: Unlike purely decorative holiday makes, a coaster actually gets put to work on your table every day of the season.
- Color flexible: The design holds up in any colorway, so you can work with whatever yarn you already have on hand.
What You'll Need
This is a stash-friendly project — 10 g of DK per color is genuinely all the yarn you need.
- DK Weight Yarn (Light Weight 3): DK weight is the right call here because it gives the coaster enough body to lay flat without being stiff or thick underfoot of a mug. You'll need about 10 g per color, so this is a perfect use for small leftovers. Check your yarn label for fiber content since the pattern doesn't specify one. A cotton or cotton blend tends to work well for coasters because it holds its shape and handles moisture without stretching out.
- 4mm Crochet Hook: A 4mm hook pairs well with DK weight and gives you a firm, tight fabric. That matters for coasters since you want the stitches dense enough that liquid doesn't soak straight through.
- Also needed: scissors, tapestry needle
Project Summary
Everything you need to know before you start, all in one place.
| Skill Level | Easy |
| Pattern Gauge | Gauge is not critical for this project. Use a hook size that creates a firm fabric so the coaster lies flat and holds its shape. |
| Finished Size | Approx. 4.5 in (11.5 cm) diameter coaster (excluding ears) |
| Yarn Weight | 3 Light / DK |
| Terminology | US |
Abbreviations & Stitches Used
Keep this list open while you work.
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- inc = increase (work 2 sc in next st)
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch
- tog = together
Pattern Notes
This is a beginner-friendly project. Most people finish one in about half an hour, so it's a good one to pick up when you only have a small window of time. I work this in rounds from the center out, starting with a magic ring. About 10 grams of DK weight yarn per coaster is plenty. Check your yarn label for fiber content and care instructions, since that'll matter for something that's going to sit under a wet glass. The ears are worked separately and attached, so they're not included in the diameter measurement.
How to Make the Easter Bunny Coaster Crochet Pattern
This Easter Bunny Coaster Crochet Pattern works up in a single piece, building the circular base and then forming the ears directly from it.
Building the Coaster Base and Bunny Ears
The whole coaster — base and ears — is worked as one continuous piece. You'll build a flat circle through Round 4, then branch off to form each ear individually before joining them together at the top.
Round 1: 12 dc in MR. [12 dc]
Round 2: 12 inc. [24 dc]
Round 3: (inc, dc) x12. [36 dc]
Round 4: (2 dc, inc) x12. [48 dc] This completes the flat circular base. You'll now leave the remaining stitches of Round 4 unworked for a moment while you build the first ear.
Round 5: ch 8, 7 sc from the 2nd ch, sl st in the next dc of Round 4. [st count not given] The chain-8 here is the foundation for the first ear. Working 7 sc back along it from the 2nd chain gives you the ear's spine, and the slip stitch anchors it back to the base.
Round 6: ch 1, turn, 6 dc, 3 dc in next, 3 dc in next on the other side, 6 dc, skip 1 dc of Round 4 and sl st in next. [st count not given] The two sets of 3 dc worked into the same stitch at the tip round out the top of the ear. The skip and slip stitch at the end reattaches you to the base, positioning you to start the second ear.
Round 7: ch 8, 7 sc from the 2nd ch, sl st in the next dc of Round 4. [st count not given] This is the same construction as Round 5 — you're now building the second ear in exactly the same way.
Round 8: ch 1, turn, 6 dc, 3 dc in next, 3 dc in next on the other side, 6 dc, sl st in the same st as after the first ear. [st count not given] Note that the slip stitch here lands in the same stitch used after the first ear, rather than skipping ahead — keep an eye on that distinction so both ears sit symmetrically on the base.
Round 9: sl st the first 3 dc of each ear together. [st count not given] This step joins the inner edges of both ears at their base, bringing them together so they stand side by side. Work slowly here — you're slip stitching through stitches from two separate ear sections at once.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Frequently Asked Questions
The 4mm hook is what I used to get the coaster to sit flat and come out at roughly 4.5 inches across. If you go up a hook size, you'll get a slightly larger, more open fabric, which isn't ideal for a coaster since you want it to hold its shape under a mug. Stick close to 4mm for best results.
No, the ears are worked as part of the same construction sequence as the coaster base. You don't have a separate piece to seam on, which keeps finishing pretty minimal.
The pattern doesn't specify a particular colorway, so that part is completely up to you. Classic white with a pale pink inner ear is the obvious Easter choice, but I've also seen these done in soft grey and cream. Check your yarn label for the specific fiber content since that'll affect how the color holds up to washing.
A single skein of DK weight goes a long way for these. Each coaster is small, around 4.5 inches across, so you should comfortably get a full set of four from one skein, possibly more depending on how many colors you're using and how much you carry or cut yarn between sections.
Curling usually means the tension is too tight or the stitch count crept off somewhere in the rounds. Working in rounds can sometimes pull inward if you're a naturally tight crocheter. Try going up half a hook size, or just loosen your grip a bit. Blocking a cotton coaster flat while damp can also help if the curl is minor.
You need to know how to work in rounds, do basic increases, and manage a slip stitch join. If you've made a granny square or a simple circle before, this will feel familiar. The ear shaping is the one part that might take a second read-through, but it's only 9 rounds total for the whole coaster.
Before You Go
If you make a set of these little bunny coasters, I'd love to see how they turn out. Drop a photo in the comments or tag me on Instagram so I can see your color choices, because that's honestly the most fun part of a pattern like this. And if you're saving ideas for next Easter already (no judgment, I start in January), pin this one to your holiday crochet board so it doesn't get buried. Happy stitching.
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