I had this idea rattling around for a while before I finally sat down and made it happen, and I'm really glad I did. This Chicken Basket Crochet Pattern is one of those projects that's a little bit functional, a little bit whimsical, and ends up being a genuinely fun intermediate-level make. It comes together as a compact crocheted container, standing just under nine inches tall, so it's not a huge time commitment but it's also not a quick ten-minute thing. There's enough going on to keep you interested the whole way through.
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Behind the Pattern
What I like about this one is that it's not just decorative for the sake of it. The basket opening is built right into the design, so the finished piece actually holds things. That combination of sculptural and useful is what drew me to the concept in the first place. I wanted something that would feel at home on a kitchen counter or a table at Easter, not just something that sits on a shelf collecting dust.
The construction involves working several separate pieces and bringing them together, which I find satisfying in a way that straight top-down projects sometimes aren't. You get to see each component take shape on its own before everything comes together. It's the kind of pattern I'd make as a gift without a second thought. A home baker, someone who loves farmhouse-style decor, a friend who appreciates handmade things that are also actually useful. Any of those people would love this sitting on their counter.
What Makes This Pattern Special
A charming crocheted basket that's as functional as it is decorative.
- Skill level: Intermediate, so you'll want some basic shaping experience before diving in, but nothing here is out of reach.
- Multi-piece construction: The pattern works in separate components that join together, which makes the whole build feel manageable and rewarding.
- Actually functional: The opening is a real basket space, not just decorative, so the finished piece earns its spot on a table or counter.
- Gifting potential: This is a strong handmade gift option, especially around Easter or for anyone who leans toward cottage or farmhouse-style home decor.
- Appliqué details: The small added embellishments give you a chance to practice a technique that's useful across a lot of other projects too.
Your Supply List
Most of what you need here is leftover yarn — only two colors actually require dedicated yardage.
- Worsted Weight Wool-Alpaca Blend (65% Wool, 35% Alpaca): A wool-alpaca blend at worsted weight is a really good fit for a project like this. The wool gives the fabric enough structure to hold its shape in the basket and body pieces, while the alpaca softens it up so it doesn't feel stiff or scratchy. You'll need 200 g of light beige for the main body work, and 50 g of red for the comb, tail, and accent rounds. The goldenrod, medium brown, and white are all small amounts, so scrap yarn works perfectly for those.
- 4 mm / G6 Crochet Hook: This size pairs well with worsted weight yarn and gives you a tight enough fabric that the stuffing won't show through. The pattern targets 18 sc over 10 cm, so if your gauge runs loose or tight, adjust your hook size accordingly rather than pushing through with the wrong tension.
- Poly stuffing, paper, or similar: This is used to fill out the top of the head, not the whole piece. You don't need much. A small handful of polyfil works, but crumpled paper or even fabric scraps do the job just as well if that's what you have on hand.
- Also needed: stitch marker, yarn needle
Alternative Yarn Suggestions
A pure wool-alpaca blend isn't always easy to find or budget-friendly, so here are two substitutes that hold up well for this kind of project.
- 100% Wool Worsted: Pure wool at worsted weight gives you the same structure and stitch definition. It's a little less soft than a blend with alpaca, but it works well and is widely available. Look for something around 200 m per 100 g.
- Wool-Acrylic Worsted Blend: A wool-acrylic mix is easier on the budget and holds its shape well. The drape is slightly different from an alpaca blend, but for a basket and amigurumi-style pieces, that's not really a problem. Standard worsted yardage around 180-200 m per 100 g is what you're looking for.
Color Sequence & Yarn Changes
The light beige carries the majority of the work across the basket, head, and most of the wing, with red coming in at Wing Round 18 and continuing into the comb and tail. The flowers pull from red, goldenrod, and white in varying rounds depending on which flower you're making, so it's worth keeping all three accessible rather than tucking them away between uses.
At a Glance
A sturdy spiral-worked basket in wool-alpaca, with colorwork details built right into the rounds.
| Skill Level | Intermediate |
| Pattern Gauge | Gauge is not critical for this project. Use a hook size that creates a firm fabric suitable for a basket, and follow the provided gauge reference: 18 sc = width 10 cm / 4" |
| Finished Size | approx. height 22 cm / 8¾" |
| Yarn Weight | 4 Medium / Worsted |
| Fiber | 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca |
| Terminology | US |
Stitch Guide & Abbreviations
Nothing unusual here — mostly sc with a few extras.
- beg = beginning
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dec = decrease
- inc = increase
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- tog = together
- tr = treble crochet (US)
Special Stitches
- Magic circle: Wrap yarn to form an adjustable loop, ch 1, work the required number of sc into the loop, then pull tail to tighten.
- Inc: 2 sc in next sc.
- Dec (sc2tog): Insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop; insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop; yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Important Notes
The basket is worked in the round in a continuous spiral — no joining at the end of each round, no turning. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go. It's easy to lose track otherwise, especially once the colorwork starts.
Hook size is DROPS 4 mm / G-6, or whatever gets you a firm, dense fabric. The gauge reference is 18 sc to 10 cm / 4", but the basket needs to hold its shape more than it needs to hit an exact measurement, so let the fabric tell you if you need to size down.
How to Make the Chicken Basket Crochet Pattern
Work through each piece in order, then assemble everything at the end to bring your chicken basket to life.
Crocheting the Basket
The basket is worked in the round in a circle, starting with light beige and a magic circle. This is the main body of the project — everything else builds off it or attaches to it.
Round 1: 8 sc in magic circle. [8 sc]
Round 2: inc in every sc. [16 sc]
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, inc* repeat around. [24 sc]
Round 4: *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, inc* repeat around. [32 sc]
Round 5: *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, inc* repeat around. [40 sc]
Round 6: 1 sc in every sc. [40 sc]
Round 7: *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, inc* repeat around. [48 sc]
Round 8: 1 sc in every sc. [48 sc]
Round 9: *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, inc* repeat around. [56 sc]
Round 10: 1 sc in every sc. [56 sc]
Round 11: *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, inc* repeat around. [64 sc]
Round 12: 1 sc in every sc. [64 sc]
Round 13: *1 sc in each of next 7 sc, inc* repeat around. [72 sc]
Round 14: 1 sc in every sc. [72 sc]
Round 15: *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, inc* repeat around. [84 sc]
Round 16: 1 sc in every sc. [84 sc]
Round 17: *1 sc in each of next 6 sc, inc* repeat around. [96 sc]
Round 18: 1 sc in every sc. [96 sc]
Round 19: *1 sc in each of next 7 sc, inc* repeat around. [108 sc]
Round 20: 1 sc in every sc. [108 sc]
Round 21: *1 sc in each of next 8 sc, inc* repeat around. [120 sc]
Round 22: Then work 1 sc in every sc until basket measures approx. 16 cm / 6¼" vertically. When the last sc on the last round has been worked, move the marker to the 12th sc from hook (on the right side of the last sc, end of round = mid front of head). Do not cut the yarn. This is the transition point into the head — placing the marker carefully here makes the head positioning much easier.
Move the marker to the 12th sc from hook (on the right side of the last sc, end of round = mid front of head). Do not cut the yarn.
Shaping the Head
The head grows directly out of the basket — no joining, no separate piece. You're working in the round over just 24 stitches pulled from the basket's top edge, so keep your marker moving upward as you go.
Round 1: Continue working 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc; there are now 24 sc in total counted from the st with marker. Now work the head in the round over these 24 sts as follows: Turn the basket so that st with marker is towards you, work 1 sc in this sc (this st is now 1st sc on round; move the marker upwards), continue with 1 sc in each of the next 23 sc. [24 sc] Take a moment to orient the basket correctly before continuing — the marked stitch becomes the front center of the head from here on.
Turn the basket so that st with marker is towards you; move the marker upwards.
Rounds 2–7: Round 1-6: 1 sc in every sc. [24 sc]
Round 8: *1 sc in each of next 4 sc, dec* repeat around. [20 sc] The decreases start here — this is where the head begins to close in.
Round 9: *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, dec* repeat around. [16 sc]
Round 10: *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, dec* repeat around. [12 sc]
Round 11: *1 sc in next sc, dec* repeat around. [8 sc]
Round 12: Work all sc tog 2 by 2. [4 sc] Stuff the head firmly before this round gets too tight to reach inside comfortably.
Round 13: Cut yarn. Sew the last 4 sc tog with yarn end.
Cut yarn. Sew the last 4 sc tog with yarn end.
Making the Cock's Comb
The cock's comb is worked back and forth with red yarn. It's a small piece but the stitch combination gives it that layered, jagged silhouette you'd expect on a rooster.
Step 1: Ch 20, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. [19 sl st]
Step 2: Turn. Skip 1st sl st, in next sl st work (1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc), skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work (2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc), skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work (2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc), skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work (2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc), skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work (1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc), sl st in last sl st. Fasten off. The varying stitch heights across the five peaks are intentional — the taller stitches in the center cluster create the tallest point of the comb.
Fasten off.
Crocheting the Beak
The beak is worked back and forth in rows with goldenrod yarn. It's a small flat piece that widens briefly before tapering back down to a point.
Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. [2 sc]
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in every sc. [4 sc]
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc. [4 sc]
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc. [4 sc]
Row 5: Ch 1, work all sc tog 2 by 2. [2 sc]
Row 6: Ch 1, work 2 sc tog. [1 sc]
Fasten off.
Making the Tail
The tail is worked back and forth with red yarn, similar in construction to the cock's comb. A short foundation chain sets up three decorative peaks across the row.
Step 1: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. [11 sc]
Step 2: Turn. Skip 1st sc, in next sc work 3 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, in next sc work (1 dc, 3 tr, 1 dc), skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, in next sc work 3 dc, sl st in last sc. Fasten off.
Fasten off.
Crocheting the Wing
The wing is worked in the round in a circle, starting with light beige and a magic circle. It follows the same shaping as the basket for the first 17 rounds, then finishes with a decorative red edging — this piece doubles as the basket lid.
Rounds 1–17: Round 1-17: Work as Basket rounds 1-17. [96 sc]
Round 18: Switch to red, *1 sc, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc* repeat around. Fasten off. The color switch to red here creates the scalloped border along the wing's edge.
Fasten off.
Crocheting the Flowers
The flowers are worked in the round, and you'll make 2 of each flower variation. Each one uses the same two-round structure — just swap colors as noted for each version.
Step 1: FLOWER 1 (goldenrod)
Step 2: Round 1: Ch 3 and form a ring with sl st in first ch. Ch 1, 8 sc in ring, sl st in first sc. [8 sc]
Step 3: Round 2: Ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, ch 3* repeat around, ch 3, sl st in 1st sc (= 8 ch-spaces). Fasten off.
Step 4: FLOWER 2
Step 5: Work as Flower 1, but Round 1 in goldenrod and Round 2 in red.
Step 6: FLOWER 3
Step 7: Work as Flower 1, but Round 1 in red and Round 2 in goldenrod.
Step 8: FLOWER 4
Step 9: Work as Flower 1, but Round 1 in white and Round 2 in red.
Step 10: FLOWER 5
Step 11: Work as Flower 1, but Round 1 in goldenrod and Round 2 in white.
Putting It All Together
With all the pieces finished, it's time to assemble the chicken. I sew the cock's comb to the top of the head first, then attach the beak at the front and embroider the eyes with medium brown yarn. The tail goes on the opposite side of the basket from the head. For the wing, I place it over the basket and fasten it on one side so it can open and close like a lid — it's functional, not just decorative. Finally, I fasten the flowers onto the basket and the wing lid, scattering them however feels right.
Care Instructions
The wool-alpaca blend in this basket is lovely to work with, but it does need a little care when washing. Hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool detergent, and don't wring it out. Press the water out gently, reshape the basket while it's still damp, and lay it flat to dry. The basket holds its shape well once dry, but if it's been sitting squashed in a bag or box, a quick steam from a distance can coax it back into shape without flattening the texture.
Frequently Asked Questions
The wing is crocheted exactly like the basket base through round 17, so it matches the basket's diameter almost perfectly. You fasten it on one side only, which lets it swing open and closed like a hinged lid. It's a clever construction detail, and once the flowers are attached it looks completely intentional rather than functional.
The pattern calls for poly stuffing, paper, or similar filler packed into the top of the head before you close it up. I used poly stuffing and it held the rounded shape well. The head is worked directly from the basket rim over 24 stitches, so the stuffing just needs to fill that upper section rather than the whole piece.
Small amounts cover everything except the main light beige and red. The goldenrod, medium brown, and white are all listed as leftover yarn quantities. Red you'll want around 50 g for the cock's comb, tail, wing edging, and flower rounds. The beige carries almost the entire basket and wing, so that's where your 200 g goes.
After finishing the basket body, you move the stitch marker 12 stitches back from the end of the round. That repositioned marker becomes the center front of the chicken's face. You then work the head in rounds over just those 24 stitches, turning the basket toward you so the face sits at the front. It reads oddly on paper but makes sense once you're holding the basket.
There are five flower designs and you make two of each, so ten flowers total. They're all built on the same two-round structure but use different color combinations across the rounds. Goldenrod, red, and white are mixed and swapped between rounds to get the variation. It's a small detail that adds a lot to the finished look.
Now It's Your Turn!
I'd love to see how your Chicken Basket turns out, especially the flower combinations you choose. There's a lot of room to play with the color pairings, and I have a feeling everyone's version is going to look a little different. Drop a photo in the comments, tag me on Instagram, or pin this to your home decor crochet board so you can find it again later. And if the marker placement in the head section trips you up, leave a comment and I'll walk through it with you.
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