I have a soft spot for a small, satisfying project that actually gets finished in a reasonable amount of time, and this one really delivered. The Crochet Turtle Amigurumi Crochet Pattern: The Mossy Turtle is a compact little crocheted turtle plush that came together so much faster than I expected. It's beginner-friendly without feeling boring to make, and the finished result is the kind of thing you genuinely want to keep on your desk instead of giving away.
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About the Design
What I like about this design is that it has a little more going on than your average beginner amigurumi. The shell is worked separately and sits on top of the body, which gives the finished piece a really nice dimensional quality. There's something satisfying about assembling it all at the end and watching it actually look like a turtle. I'd make this for a baby shower, a kid's birthday, or honestly just because. It's the kind of gift that lands well no matter the occasion, and it doesn't require a huge time commitment to pull off.
Why This Pattern Stands Out
A multi-piece construction that's still totally approachable for beginners.
- Skill level: Rated easy, so if you've made a few basic amigurumi before, you'll have no trouble here.
- Quick to finish: The small size means you can realistically complete this in one or two sittings.
- Great for gifting: Small, sturdy, and cute enough that it works as a gift for just about any age.
- Technique value: You get practice working separate pieces and assembling them, which is a useful skill to build.
Materials You'll Need
Five colors sounds like a lot, but most of them are small amounts you can pull straight from your scrap bin.
- Bulky Weight Yarn (Weight 5), Five Colors: A bulky weight acrylic works really well here. It crochets up with enough structure to hold the shell shape without needing a ton of extra stuffing, and it's easy to find in the colors you need. Since yardage isn't specified in the pattern, plan for roughly 50 to 80 yards of Color A and Color C, and smaller amounts of Color B, Color D, and the optional white. Colors C and A do the heavy lifting yardage-wise.
- 5 mm Crochet Hook: The 5 mm is a good match for bulky weight yarn at a tighter gauge, which keeps the stuffing from showing through the fabric. If your tension runs loose, size down slightly.
- Safety Eyes: The pattern doesn't specify a size, so 9 mm to 12 mm is a reasonable range for a turtle at this scale. Insert them before the head piece closes up.
- Polyfil Stuffing: You'll stuff the shell, head, and legs as you go, before each piece closes. A small bag is plenty for a project this size.
- Floral Wire: This is optional, but if you want the legs and tail to be poseable, a length of floral wire threaded through them does the job. Wrap the ends in duct tape before inserting so they don't poke through the yarn.
- Duct Tape: Only needed if you're using the floral wire. Just a small piece to cap the wire ends.
- Also needed: stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors
Color Sequence & Yarn Changes
The colors are worked in separate pieces rather than switched mid-round, so there are no tricky yarn carries to manage. Color A builds the top of the shell, Color B handles the underside, and Color C covers the head, legs, and tail as its own set of pieces. Color D is just a small length of yarn for the mouth embroidery at the very end.
Essential Info
Four colors go into this little turtle, and keeping them straight from the start makes everything easier.
| Skill Level | Easy |
| Pattern Gauge | Gauge is not critical for this project. Use a hook size that creates a tight, firm fabric so stuffing does not show through. |
| Finished Size | Approx. 6 in (15 cm) long (estimated) |
| Yarn Weight | 5 Bulky |
| Terminology | US |
Stitches & Abbreviations
Nothing unusual here. just the usual amigurumi suspects.
- BL = back loop
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- FO = fasten off
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dec = decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- inc = increase
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- shell = shell stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sts = stitches
- R = Round
Pattern Notes
I work this turtle in continuous rounds throughout. no joining at the end of each round, no turning. Keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round so you don't lose your place.
Four colors are used in total. Color A is for the back of the shell, Color B for the underside, Color C for the legs, head, and tail, and Color D is used for mouth embroidery. If you want a little white around the safety eyes, Color D can pull double duty there as well, but that part is optional.
A 5 mm hook is a good starting point, but go up or down as needed. The fabric should feel firm enough that stuffing won't peek through the stitches. If it does, drop down a hook size.
Crochet Instructions
Work through each section in order, building the turtle piece by piece directly from the shell outward.
The Shell
The shell is the foundation of the whole turtle, and everything else grows right out of it. You'll work it in the round, shaping the dome first, then creating the holes where the head, tail, and legs will attach.
Round 1: Start in Color A. 8 sc in MR. [8 sc]
Round 2: 8 inc. [16 sc]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x8. [24 sc]
Round 4: Sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x7, sc. [32 sc]
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8. [40 sc]
Round 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc. [48 sc]
Round 7: (4 sl st, 4 sc) x6. [48 sts] The slip stitches sit flatter against the dome and the regular sc sit higher, so the alternating pattern starts to give the shell its segmented look.
Round 8: (4 FLO sc, 4 dc) x6. [48 sts] Keep a stitch marker in the final stitch you just made. This marks where you'll attach Color B in Round 10.
Keep a stitch marker in the final stitch you just made. This marks where you'll attach Color B in Round 10.
Round 9: FLO, 48 sc around. [48 sc] This will create a little lip for the shell.
This will create a little lip for the shell.
Round 10: Change to Color B. You're going to be going into the back loops left behind in Round 9. Do not stitch into Round 9 itself.
As you go around, you'll be skipping all the back loops of the sc made in Round 8. You'll be chaining over those spots with sc, and you'll sc where there were dc. This is going to create 6 holes total where the legs, head, and tail will go.
Insert your hook in the back loop of Round 9 where you left your stitch marker and pull through a loop of Color B. Ch 1 to lock it in place.
(Ch 4, skip the 4 sc spaces, 4 BLO sc in the dc spaces) x6. [48 sts] This round is the most technical part of the whole pattern. Read through it a couple of times before you start so you're clear on where your hook is going. The stitch marker from Round 8 is your anchor point — don't skip placing it.
Sl st into the first sc of the round. FO Color A and weave in the tail. The stitches made in this round will remain unworked.
Round 11: (4 sc in chains, 2 dec) x6. [36 sc]
Round 12: (dec, 2 sc) x9. [27 sc]
Round 13: (sc, dec) x9. [18 sc]
Start stuffing here.
Round 14: 9 dec. [9 sc]
Stuff without letting it go out the holes. You'll be building on those holes and can fill in better later as you go.
FO and use the tail to close the hole by going through the front loops of the remaining stitches and pulling tight. Hide the tail in the shell.
The Head
The head grows directly out of one of the shell holes, so there's no sewing required. Getting the starting position right matters here — if you attach on the wrong side, the neck shaping will be upside down.
Round 1: In Color C, insert your hook into the bottom right side of one of the holes and pull up a loop. Ch 1 to secure it. If you don't do it on the right side, your neck will wind up upside down (the increases should be on top and decreases on bottom in the next few rounds). 4 sc in the bottom 4 stitches of the shell (Color B) and 4 inc in the 4 back loops in the top (Color A). [12 sc]
Secure the starting tail while you can still get to it.
Round 2: 2 dec, 8 sc. [10 sc]
Round 3: 3 sc, 6 inc, sc. [16 sc]
Round 4: 5 sc, 8 inc, sc, dec. [23 sc]
Start stuffing the neck and continue as you go.
Round 5: 3 dec, 13 sc, 2 dec. [18 sc]
Rounds 6–8: Round 6: 18 sc. [18 sc]
Round 7: 18 sc. [18 sc]
Round 8: 18 sc. [18 sc]
Round 9: (sc, dec) x6. [12 sc]
Add safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, 6 stitches apart. Make sure you're fully stuffed.
Round 10: 6 dec. [6 sc]
FO and close the hole in the same manner as the shell.
The Tail
The tail works out of the hole directly opposite the head. It's a quick section — just a few rounds of simple shaping.
Round 1: In the hole opposite the head, insert your hook and pull up a loop on the right side bottom of the hole (same as you did for the head). Ch 1 to secure. 8 sc around (4 in the bottom, 4 in the top of the shell). [8 sc]
Secure the yarn tail.
Round 2: 8 sc. [8 sc]
Start stuffing if you want to fill in this side of the shell more, or you can reach through the leg holes to fill it better when the tail is done.
Round 3: 2 dec, 4 sc. [6 sc]
Round 4: 6 sc. [6 sc]
FO and close the hole in the same manner as the others.
The Legs
Repeat this section 4 times, once for each remaining hole. The stitch mix in the early rounds is intentional — the dc and hdc on the top of the leg force a natural downward curve, so where you attach the yarn matters. Before you start your last leg, check the body stuffing. Once that final leg is closed up, you won't be able to get back in.
Round 1: In the remaining holes, insert your hook and pull up a loop on the right side bottom of the hole (same as you did for the head). Ch 1 to secure. 4 sc in the bottom shell, hdc in the first stitch of the top of the shell, 2 dc, and hdc to finish off the top shell stitches. [8 sts]
Secure the yarn tail.
The goal is to force the legs to curve down with the use of longer dc and hdc, while the bottom stays shorter with sc. So placement is vital for where you attach the yarn.
Round 2: 2 dec, hdc, 2 dc inc, hdc. [8 sts]
Round 3: 2 dec, sc, 2 inc, sc. [8 sc]
As you stuff the leg, avoid stuffing the bend too much as it will prevent it from bending as well.
Rounds 4–6: Round 4: 8 sc. [8 sc]
Round 5: 8 sc. [8 sc]
Round 6: 8 sc. [8 sc]
If you'd prefer to define the leg bend better, you can use floral wire inside but make sure to wrap the ends in duct tape so it doesn't come poking out. Worsted weight doesn't need it but super plushy yarn might need support to stand up. If you're unsure, I suggest fastening off all 4 legs before closing them up so you have the chance to see if it will stand, then you can still add the wire.
FO and close the hole in the same manner as the other pieces.
Baby & Child Safety Notes
This turtle uses safety eyes, and if you're making it for a young child, those need to be secured BEFORE you stuff and close up the head. Once the stuffing is in, you can't get back in there to fix them. I'd also recommend checking every seam where the legs, head, and tail attach to the shell. Those openings are worked directly into the shell holes, so they're pretty sturdy, but give each one a firm tug before handing it off to a kid. If you used floral wire inside any of the legs, this turtle is not suitable for children. Even wrapped in duct tape, wire ends can work their way through yarn over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Add the safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8 of the head, about 6 stitches apart. Do it before Round 9, because that's when you start decreasing and closing things up. Make sure the head is fully stuffed at that point too, since the stuffing affects how the eyes sit.
The 6 holes are built right into the shell during Round 10, using chains that skip over the leg spaces. The head, tail, and four legs are each crocheted directly out of those holes, not sewn on separately. You pull up a loop into the hole and work in the round from there, which makes the attachment really solid.
The wire goes inside the legs to help them hold their bent shape and support the turtle standing up. Worsted weight yarn usually doesn't need it. If you're using a super bulky or very fluffy yarn, the legs might flop without some support. I'd suggest finishing all four legs before closing them so you can see how they sit first, then decide.
This comes down to where you insert your hook when starting the head. The increases need to land on top and the decreases on the bottom. If you attach on the wrong side of the hole, the shaping ends up flipped. The pattern flags this, but it's easy to miss in the moment. If something looks off after Round 2, it's worth pulling back and restarting the head from the hole.
Start stuffing the shell at Round 13, but don't overfill it yet. The leg holes are still open at that point, and you can reach in through them to add or adjust stuffing as you go. Your LAST leg is the final chance to fix the stuffing, so check it before you close that one up.
Final Thoughts
The Mossy Turtle is one of those projects that looks complicated from the outside but really just asks you to take it one section at a time. The shell construction is the part that surprises people most, and once that clicks, the rest moves pretty quickly. If you make one, I'd love to see it. Tag me on social or drop a photo in the comments. And if you're saving patterns for later, this one pins really well for a future weekend project.
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